Wednesday, November 16, 2011

J.M. Rauffault Chinon blanc 09 (3/6)

Chinon Blanc 2009 Raffault makes 500 cases per year of a rarely seen white Chinon, made from Chenin Blanc grapes. It is harvested after the reds grapes, and vinified in stainless steel tanks. The white Chinon is bottled in the Spring, at the same time as the Rose. Chinon Blanc is a unique expression of the Chenin Blanc grape. It has a soft, fresh entry, with enticing peach, pear and citrus flavors, nuanced by a gentle minerality from its limestone-chalk soil. The Chinon Blanc is excellent on its own, as an aperitif, and with cold seafood, grilled fish, and curries found in Indian and Thai dishes. CHINON Jean-Maurice Raffault’s famed Chinon estate is now run by his son Rodolphe. Chinon is located in the central Loire valley, near Tours, and is the northernmost French red wine appellation. The family has been vignerons in Chinon since 1693 and the estate now comprises 40 hectares spread over 6 communes. Raffault harvests his Cabernet Francs as late as possible and vinifies each parcel separately. Fermentation can last up to one month with daily pumping over for maximum extraction of color and flavors. The wines are then aged in Bordeaux barrels in his remarkable 54 degree cellar (caves cut into the limestone slopes) and are bottled without filtration. Raffault is one of the few Chinon producers still using oak barrels to produce stable, tannic wines with impressive structure and intensity of fruit. It's fascinating to taste the ultimate expression of the Cabernet Franc varietal in the range of styles made by this very talented winemaker. Rodolphe Raffault obtained a post graduate degree in Chemistry in Tours and then studied for the National Diploma in Oenology from the University of Dijon. After taking his degree, Rodolphe spent 2 years in Burgundy as a stagiere, followed by another stage at a Loire Co-op. In 1997, he joined his father Jean-Maurice, at the family domaine in Chinon which had by then grown to 40 hectares. He has been in charge of the vineyards and winemaking since the 2000 vintage. Rodolphe is proud to perpetuate his family’s heritage as wine-growers, which began in 1693. He is particularly motivated to continue his late father’s innovation of single-site bottling in Chinon, for example with his revival of the historic Clos des Capucins vineyard. Going forward, Rodolphe Raffault is evolving his vineyards in the direction of sustainable and organic viticulture. The Raffault specialty is the different cuvees coming from distinct sites. Raffault’s Chinons are wonderfully expressive wines which go together with a wide variety of classic French dishes but their natural fruity acidities make them fine matches for Asiatic cuisine, grilled fish, and spicy American foods. For wines with such depth and complexity, they also represent remarkable value.

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